Breaking 80 Golf Tips - Discover the Secret to Hitting Perfect Shots For Duffers

Most every golfer I have ever met wants to improve or play better golf. Yeah they may be duffers, golfers with handicaps, but they still long to improve their golf swing, shoot lower scores and reduce their handicap. One goal we all have is to hit the ball crisply, making pure contact allows for better ball flight and distance control.

Some may choose to take golf lessons from a pro but more and more ambitious golfers are turning to the Internet with its wealth of resources to gather the information they need to improve their golf game. Articles like this, e-books and videos can all be found here on the net to help the struggling golfer played better golf.

One key step in the learning process is to understand how the club design dictates how we should swing the club. Proper use of the golf club will make a huge improvement in your ball striking without having to change your grip, address position or swing.

From the driver to the putter every club has these elements. To play better golf needs to fully understand how to apply these elements while using the golf club. So much of the frustration high handicappers experience comes from working against these design elements rather than with them.

To use the club effectively requires a good understanding of the key design elements built into every club by the engineers. These elements are shaft lean, lie angle and center of gravity.

Let's look at shaft lean now.

Shaft Lean

This may be the most important design element of the three. Clubs are built so that the shaft leans forward (toward the target) when properly soled.

Experiment by placing a short iron on a table or counter top. Notice that when the sole is placed flat on the surface of the table that the shaft leans forward past the clubhead.

That angle is the secret to hit crisp, clean golf shots. When the club impacts the ball with the shaft at that angle it creates maximum compression of the golf ball creating perfect launch characteristics of spin rate and launch angle.

You'll feel that perfect impact in your hands, hear that familiar click and then watch the classic ball flight. The pure golf shot is such a thing of beauty, don't you agree?

Next, while still using that club on the table, lean the shaft back until it is vertical. Take special notice of the leading edge of the clubhead. It has lifted up off the table hasn't it? Now the clubface is at a flatter angle to the table. How will those changes affect your golf shot? With the leading edge lifted up like that it becomes easier to blade the ball at impact. The flatter angle with throw the ball higher in the air than designed.

Now move the shaft back a bit further. Now it is leaning away from the target, the leading edge is sticking way up off the table and the clubface has flattened out even more. This exaggerates the affects mentioned with a vertical shaft.

Here is the shocker for you. Most high handicappers strike the ball with the shaft leaning backwards rather than forward as it was designed! Yes, that last position on the table top I showed you is the most common found in amateurs.

The real secret to hitting crisp, clean golf shots is to strike the ball with the shaft leaning forward at impact. This promotes the all important descending blow required to produce those perfect, pure golf shots.

Apply this new knowledge to your golf swing and watch how fast you go from duffer to player.

Discover more free secrets to improving your golf game here: Hit Down for Perfect Iron Shots.

Liability in Golf Course Accidents and Injuries

Dangers of Playing Golf

Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus, Sam Snead, and Francis Ouimet are just some of the people who became famous due to their skills in playing golf. The popularity of this sport has been boosted significantly in the recent years, making it one of the most popular sources of entertainment in the whole United States.

Although many people view golf as a constant source of entertainment, others feel that it has become the reason for their suffering due to the occurrence of golf course accidents. In line with the boost of the sport’s popularity is the boost in the number of accidents that occur in it. In fact, the University of Alabama has published an article revealing that more that 1,000 golf course accidents are reported in the country every month.

Determining Liability in Golf Course Accidents

When a person sustains an injury while he or she was inside a golf course, someone may be liable for it especially if another person’s negligence is the reason why the victim is suffering. Here are some examples of parties who may be liable in such accident:

Golf players

The most usual source of golf course injuries is due to the negligence of the players involved in the game.

Although a golf ball is small, getting hit by it can still produce considerable damage. Statistics revealed that a small number of people were reported to have sustained life-threatening injuries after being struck by a golf ball.

Many people sue to be compensated when they were hit by a golf ball especially if they were injured due by it. The issue of negligence may materialize from the player’s commission or omission of an action if a reasonable individual could foresee that the action or omission may cause other people to get hurt.

Golf course owner or operator

An injured individual can also try to determine whether the golf course owner is responsible for the accident. One vital way of doing this is by finding out if the golf course is publicly or privately owned. If the golf course is publicly owned, the government may be immune from any kind of liability or responsibility for an ordinary negligence.

Meanwhile, a golf course’s operator or owner may be viewed as liable for an accident if there is a failure in applying ordinary care in preserving the area’s safe and good condition.

Golf course builder or designer

A court may rule that a golf course was improperly designed or built, thus placing the players at a bigger danger compared to what is expected. In general, an injured individual must be able to prove that the area contained unseen dangers or it was negligently designed before damages may be awarded.

Proving liability in golf course accidents is not easy because of the legalities that surround the process. Injured individuals may have a higher chance of attaining this goal by asking for the legal help of skilled personal injury lawyers.

To help you pursue claims for injuries sustained in a golf course accident, consult with our skilled personal injury lawyers. Visit our website at http://www.personalinjurylawyerinc.com/ and avail of our free case analysis.

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A Practical Guide to Using Horseshoe Studs

Studs, Caulks or Calks are metal devices that are screwed or driven into the bottom of your horse's shoes. By protruding from the bottom of the shoe, they can help to provide traction over muddy or deep footing, such as sand, and help your horse jump more confidently.

Before using studs, holes are "tapped," or drilled, into both heels, and sometimes the toes, of the horse's shoe. Obviously the size of the hole must accommodate the stud and generally in the US, farriers will tap a hole that supports a 3/8" diameter stud. Therefore, unless you have a special requirement for a smaller hole, such as a pony with very small feet, you should try to stick with 3/8' studs.

The first time you ride your horse with studs you should fit him with some small road studs and let him walk around unmounted for a while to get used to the new feeling (this does not mean turn him out in a field with studs in - horses should never be turned out in studs!)

Here are some simple rules for using studs. These relate to "screw-in" studs rather than "drive-in" studs because screw-in studs are by far the most commonly used types.

Do's:

• ALWAYS use studs in pairs, with one on each side of the hoof.

• ALWAYS use small, blunt studs on the inside of your horse’s shoes. A large, pointed stud can injure him.

• ALWAYS put protective leg boots on your horse when riding in studs.

• ALWAYS put studs in just before you will be riding and remove them as soon as possible afterwards.

• ALWAYS use the smallest stud you can, considering the conditions. While slipping is dangerous for your horse, a little slipping is much better than jarring your horse's legs with huge studs. Try to find a stud that allows a little slipping, but not so much that your horse's balance will suffer. Studs should be selected that will sink fully into the ground; otherwise they will unbalance the foot.

• ALWAYS try to have someone help you by holding your horse when you are putting studs in, especially if you will be using a Tee Tap (see below).

• ALWAYS be very careful if you have a horse that is likely to kick out at other horses or people. If you have such a horse, try to limit the amount of time you use studs.

Dont's:

• NEVER turn your horse out with studs.

• NEVER leave your horse unattended in a stall with studs.

• NEVER trailer your horse with studs.

• NEVER use studs if your horse is lame.

• NEVER put yourself in a position where a horse with studs in can step on you. It is very easy to break a toe this way, even in riding boots.

Your Stud "Toolkit"

Ahead of time, you should assemble the following items:

• A selection of studs. Remember that depending on the footing, you might not use the same studs on the inside and outside of your horse's shoes, or you could use different studs on the front than the back shoes (there is more on this subject at our website http://www.studsandstuff.com ).

• A horseshoe nail or some type of flat but pointed "pick" to remove stud plugs. Screwdrivers are generally not suitable as they tend to be too "fat" to fit between the plug and the shoe.

• A stud hole cleaner. This is used to remove any debris from the stud hole. Some people use the horseshow nail for this, but there are many specially-designed tools that will work faster.

• A tap of some type. This is used to clean and sharpen the edges of the threads your farrier drilled into the stud holes. There are many types on the market. The traditional type is a Tee Tap or T-Tap, so named because it is the shape of the letter "T". Recently round "Safety" Taps have become available on the market. These are safer because if your horse steps down on a Tee Tap it can cause an injury whereas a Safety Tap is less likely to cause a problem because it is flat and shaped like a hoof. There are some self-tapping studs starting to come onto the market that should remove the need for a separate Tap, however it is still a good idea to keep a Tap on hand.

• A wrench. This is used to tighten and then remove the studs. You can use a regular adjustable wrench found in most toolkits, although over time the wrench may wear the edges of your studs, making them difficult to use. There are also a number of special wrenches made specifically for horse studs. Even if you use a purpose-made wrench, it is probably not a bad idea to have an adjustable one too.

• A box to keep everything in one place! Studs have a notorious "homing" instinct and will disappear at the smallest opportunity. If you don't capture them in a box, you will never find them again next time you need them.

• Rags or a small sponge. For removing oil or grease from your studs (assuming you oiled and stored them correctly the last time you used them) Studs are definitely slippery when greasy and will jump on this opportunity as part of their escape plan!

The following items are also nice to have:

• A magnet for your arm or a magnetic dish. This is useful for keeping steel studs in one place while you work and will reduce the possibility of your studs escaping!

• Rubber or cotton plugs or blanks. Most people put plugs in their stud holes when they are not using studs. This keeps the holes clean. There are rubber and cotton plugs and also metal stud blanks. If you use cotton plugs, soak them in oil to prevent the holes rusting. Stud blanks are metal screw-in plugs. If you use these, you will also need a....

• Blank Wrench or Flat-Head Screwdriver. A Blank Wrench is an Allen Key and is inserted into the stud blank to screw the blank in and out of the stud hole. Some stud blanks are designed to be inserted and removed using a Flat Head Screwdriver instead of a Blank Wrench.

• Stud cleaner and lubricant. Your studs will last much longer if you clean and grease them after use. Many people wrap them in an oily rag for storage, or you can use a product such as WD-40. Pretty much anything that repels water will work. There are also specially made stud cleaners available on the market.

Putting Studs in

Ideally you should take a lesson from your farrier or trainer before attempting to put studs in yourself. Make sure you and your horse practice at home, until you can put them in and take them out easily, before using them at a competition.

If your horse has plugs in his stud holes you will need to remove these first with your horseshoe nail or other implement.

HINT: It is a good idea to take the plugs out, clean the holes and replace the plugs before you leave for a competition. There is nothing more frustrating than not being able to remove a plug when you only have 10 minutes until you should be warming up your horse!

Next you will need to clean out the stud hole with whatever tool you have chosen. Make sure that you remove all traces of dirt and debris. Putting studs into dirty stud holes can ruin the threads on your horse's shoes.

Then (unless you are using self-tapping studs) you will need to tap the stud hole with a Safety Tap or Tee Tap. Unless you have a very quiet, experienced horse and are experienced with studs, we recommend using a Safety Tap. Basically, you will place the end of the Tap into the stud hole and screw it into the hole. Another benefit of a Safety Tap is that you can't screw the Tap in too far and potentially bruise your horse's hoof, which is possible with a Tee Tap.

HINT: Self-tapping studs are a new option where the stud has a special thread that will clean the threads on your horse's shoes as you insert it. Because they are new, these studs are more expensive than traditional studs, but as long as you don't lose them, they could be a great timesaving investment.

Now you can insert the studs. Begin by screwing them in by hand and finally make them nice and tight with your wrench. Be sure that you don't over-tighten them so that you can't undo them after you finish riding!

When you are finished riding, remove the studs, plug the holes and store the studs in some form of oily rag or plastic bag with a water repellent - any kind of oil, grease or WD-40 will work. Make sure you keep some rags or a sponge on hand to wipe up the grease!

Put your studs back in their box - if you don't they WILL escape!!!

And don't forget to have a great ride!

For more information on types of studs and when to use them, please visit http://www.studsandstuff.com

Jungle Mural - How to Put Some Swing Into Your Child�s Room?

If your child loves all different types of animals, a jungle mural is a great way to make their room a fun and enjoyable place. You might be thinking how you will be able to achieve such a task, especially if you do not have artistic talents.

The truth is, however, that this type of mural is rather easy to construct as long as you have the tools to do it.

The easiest way to create a jungle mural is to transfer a desired jungle scene, animal or image to transparency film, and then use an overhead projector to display the image on the wall, which you can then trace out and begin painting.

You will find that transparency film can be purchased from any store that sells computer accessories, business or school items. As for the projector, you may be fortunate enough to be able to borrow one from your work place, or your child’s school.

If that is not an option, you can always rent one, or purchase one from a local business store or online.

The best place to look for images for your jungle mural is on the internet, simply because your child will be given many more options to choose from, as well as the images can be easily printed off on the transparency film. When looking for images, a good rule of thumb, if you are artistically challenged, is to make sure that you don’t select images with too much detail.

Try to select those that are two-dimensional. In addition to using transparencies, you can also use stencils for smaller animals such as for any birds that may be in the sky or sitting on trees. Stencils can be purchased in craft stores.

The best paints for you to purchase when constructing your jungle mural, are acrylic and artist paints, which you can get from craft or art specialty stores, as well as online. You will also need a variety of different sized brushes to go along with your paints.

When constructing your jungle mural you should also keep in mind that your mural is not only limited to the walls, you can also paint on the ceiling. For instance, if you are painting a lot of trees in your child’s jungle mural, extend the tress to make their leaves travel over the ceiling.

You may even consider coloring the center of the ceiling blue, to make it look as if the sky is peeking through a hole in the trees.

If you are not interested in adding a lot of trees, you can always make your child’s jungle mural more animal focused, by placing animals in different corners of his of her room. Don’t forget that you can use the shape of your child’s room to your advantage when creating a jungle mural.

If you choose to make a jungle mural in your child’s room, another nifty idea is to purchase for them a bunk bed or a loft bed. The reason is because these beds give a more tree house effect, which would really encourage the imagination of your child, and will improve upon the whole authenticity of the room.

You will discover that the more you brainstorm ideas with your child, the more creative you will be. Plus, not only will you discover that creating a jungle mural will be a lot of fun, but it is also a project that can bring together the whole family, making it a task that everyone can enjoy and take pride in.

You can find additional info at the following links:

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Best garage freezer

The garage freezer is becoming more and more popular, but a lot of people are still not sure if it's ok to hook up a freezer in the garage, how to do it, and which is the best freezer for the job.

A freezer in the garage is the perfect solution for large families, or in fact any family, who either don't have room in the kitchen for a separate freezer, or have a lot of mouths to feed and want to freeze in bulk so need extra storage. Everyone has different experiences of how well installing a freezer in the garage works, but as long as you have electricity hooked up and the temperatures in the garage don't vary wildly there shouldn't be any problems.

Freezers need to be stored at a certain temperature depending on their ‘climate class', the two most common classes in the UK are N' (between 16°c - 32°c) and SN' (between 10°c and 32°c), so for garage freezers climate class SN is the most appropriate, as temperatures will drop in the winter. A good idea would be to buy a temperature gage to monitor the temperatures in your garage, however as a lot of garages are attached to the main house, the adjoining wall is likely to be the warmest part of the garage.

Any type of freezer can be used in the garage depending on your needs and the space available, but the most popular is a chest freezer as it is large, good value for money and opens from the top. Usually too large for a regular kitchen, the potential capacity of a chest freezer is ideal for a larger family and having access through the top of the appliance makes it convenient for the garage where you may have a car parked or other large items in storage.

The Whirlpool chest freezer is one of the best freezers for the job, as there is a wide range to choose from with capacities ranging from 204 litres to 503 litres, and the climate class on most is SN. One thing to bear in mind when buying a chest freezer is that foods can often get lost and forgotten about in the depths of the freezer, so keep it organized with the food to be consumed the soonest at the top, and make good use of the baskets in the freezer.

Video Source: Youtube

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Sure Signs He Likes You - Secrets Only the Top Seductresses Know

Have you ever learned about body language? Do you often feel like your man is saying one thing, but feeling something else? When he tells you he's happy with everything the way it is, does something inside tell you he's lying? Have you ever wondered what he is REALLY thinking and what he's not telling you? Why can't a man just tell you what he's REALLY feeling?

Why does he get all flustered and bothered when you ask him a direct question? Wouldn't you love it if there was a manual that taught you how to read men's thoughts?

If a woman understood body language, it would give her a big advantage over men. All those other women who are confused about men would no longer be competition for you. Imagine what beating 99% of your competition will do for your love life.

You can get started immediately if you learn these three body clues:

Towards whom is his chest turning? A man might be looking at and talking to somebody else, pretending he hasn't noticed you. However, his upper body will be pointing towards the real object of his attention.

A man's upper body is the best indicator of his romantic interest in a woman. If his chest is facing ever so slightly in your direction, you know he's thinking about you. Odds are, he is really more interested in you than in anyone else in the room.

The Hypnotic Gaze.

This is a little tricky, since 2 types of guys do it. Most guys do this when they are so mesmerized they can't take their eyes off a girl, but players do it on purpose to make women believe they're in love. Don't read too much into the longing gaze of a sexy guy, since he probably knows exactly what he's doing and why. Talk to him for awhile and find out what kind of guy he is first.

The Most Trustworthy Test:

Whatever you are saying, his eyes are sparkling. How often do you see the lights go on when you are having a conversation? If the sparks only fly a few times while you're out on a dinner date, just take advantage of the free meal - it's likely this is the only date you will be having with him.


If the twinkle never leaves his eyes, you know that he's falling in love with you. The eyes only sparkle and shine when a guy is really enamored of a girl - the eyes never lie.

Knowing how his physical actions truly mean is a great first step to help you decide his feelings toward you. In most cases, a man's body language will always reveal the Sure Signs He Likes You or not. Now, how to get a guy to like you shouldn't be that difficult, since you know how to find out the signs he likes me.

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How to Write a Chorus

A song without a chorus can hardly be called a song. This rather bad statement is my personal opinion so if you don't agree, that's okay. But I would like to start this lesson with this statement, not only to wake you up, but rather because it's one of the key-statements of this lesson. So if you don't like songs without a chorus and never intend to write one, than probably you won't feel at home in this class this month. I must say I never felt at home when I was at school but that's another story... But if you do stick around, even if you don't like to write choruses, maybe you will change your mind about them.

A chorus is more or less the heart of a song, at least if it's a good one of course. Why this is true is not as obvious as it seems. People always tend to remember the chorus of a song, while it may not even be the most interesting part of the song at all. The easiest explanation of course is the fact that the chorus is usually played a couple of times during a song. But if this was the only reason why a chorus is the heart of most songs, how come then that lots of choruses are easily forgotten, even if they are played seemingly endless in the fadeout of a song? So there must be more to it.

In this lesson we will see it's hard to reveal the secrets of a good chorus. Writing a good chorus may be more a matter of the heart (something called talent?) than the mind. But since this counts for songwriting in general, don't be afraid; there are always some tricks to learn to help those who have to struggle a little more then the lucky, more talented ones. And believe me, most of us belong to the first group, to put it stronger, even the most talented ones often join the struggling crowd when they're not inspired... In lesson 5, we already saw some elements a good chorus should have. Now we will take a closer look at these elements, by discussing some rules you should follow if you want to write a good chorus. These rules are:

• It should be catchy
• It should contain elements of the rest of the song
• It shouldn't be an anti-climax

Following these rules, you obey to the most important rules of writing a good chorus. We will take a look at these rules in the next paragraph. You can also click on the links to go directly to the discussion of each of these rules.

Rule 1: a chorus should be catchy

What makes a chorus catchy? The easiest answer (for me at least) is: listen to all those golden oldies. Almost all the classics from the sixties and the seventies have catchy choruses. Of course The Beatles were real masters at this, but it seems all the bands that became famous in those days were able to write catchy choruses which seem to stick in your mind forever. Who doesn't know the chorus of Honky Tonk Women for example...

Listening to examples is a great way to teach yourself, and that counts for songwriting too! But there's something more to say about this issue too.

Keep it simple

One of the main rules in writing a good chorus is to keep it simple. Try to avoid to make the chorus sound complicated.

This doesn't mean that as long as you keep it simple technically spoken the chorus will sound simple! A chorus built around a difficult, but well written musical part will be easier to listen to than a technically simple chorus which is written in an unlogical manner.

Consider The Average Listener

The above indicates you'll have to keep the average listener in mind while writing your chorus.

Most listeners aren't musicians so don't forget that! The average listener will often look for things he/she can recognize, a certain general feeling of what sounds logical and which has been developed during many years.

You would probably think now that I'm saying most listeners are dumb but that's not the case. So don't treat them like that. They won't buy the same stuff over and over again (‘though this seems to be heavily contradicted by the house-rage of this time....) so you will have to keep them anxious. In the chorus you can try this by experimenting with backing vocals, special arrangements etc, but be careful and don't overdo things.

So in general you could say the secret to write a catchy chorus is to make it sound logical.

Rule 2: a chorus should contain elements of the rest of the song

In this lesson we already saw a chorus is one of the most important parts of your song. In most cases, it's the part of the song which will be played the most often. So it better be good!

Another trick to make your chorus a good chorus is to give it the treatment it deserves! Since it's the main element of your song, whether you like it or not, it should get all the attention it needs while you write it, to gain all the attention it needs when you play it. This brings me to a rather contradictionary issue: writing songs is a very intuïtive job and that also counts for writing choruses. But to obey to the rule that a chorus should contain elements of the rest of the song, you should at least examine and evaluate your music thoroughly. In mine opinion just writing your music from the heart will generally result in the best music, but it's not very sensible only to rely on your heart. Evaluating your music can be very useful and especially when it comes to writing a chorus.

So no matter how you write, whether you write straight from the heart or not, you will have to evaluate your song. Not only because it will enhance your songwriting skills simply because you are "forced" to think about what you have written, but also because "technical rules" like these can only be followed by using technical means like evaluation.

Since a chorus is the part that will be played and remembered most, it's the best place to "advertise" your song. Maybe if you consider the chorus to be the advertisement of your song, you will better understand the importance of putting elements of the rest of the song into it, making it kind of an excerpt of your song. Some advantages of doing so are:

Recognition

People will recognize the song by just hearing the chorus. But it works the other way around too; they will recognize the chorus as being part of that piece of music they accidentally hear when they enter a bar for example.

Recollection

People will remember your song much more easily. Because the chorus is an excerpt of the song, they will only have to remember the excerpt to remember the song. Why not using old school-tricks when they work fine?

Strenght

By putting elements of the song together in your chorus, in fact you are just making a miniature of your song. When you do this right, it will result in a very strong piece of music. Producers will be pleased when they see you have skills to achieve this, because they usually want you to cut out all the unnecessary stuff from your song.

But what elements should you take? This in fact is completely up to you and depends on the song you are writing. Generally it works fine to pick some of the more melodic parts of your song, simply because most people remember a melodic piece of music better than a monotone piece. And that's about all there is to say on this issue, but there are some pitfalls to look out for.

These tips might help you avoiding them:

Don't copy too much

While putting the best elements of your song together into your chorus, you are taking the risk of ending up with a chorus that unveils all the secrets of your song making the rest of the song predictable and dull. Therefor it's better not to copy too literally but hussle things a little.

Tricks like changing the key of the parts while played during the chorus can help. Just consider all the best parts to be some sort of colour-palette, which enables you to make various versions of the same picture.

Don't make the chorus too long. Better leave out some good parts than desperately putting everything together in the chorus! Good choruses almost never exceed 6 lines.

As you can see, this part of writing songs can be very tricky. Don't forget your skills will grow after every song you've finished, even the more technical skills that you'll need to write a good song, like evaluating your song and deciding what parts should be reflected into the chorus. I deliberatly used the term reflect, because this is one of the most vague issues of writing songs, making it one of the most difficult parts of it. But aren't things always getting more difficult when technique meets feelings?

Rule 3: a chorus shouldn't be an anti-climax

The third important rule seems simple but, unfortunatly, is not. Just like the second rule we discussed above, we will discover it's again a matter of walking on the edge. You will have to carefully find your way between what's good and what is bad, and there isn't a clear path to follow. But again, experience is something you can't buy but which comes free with endurance and perseverance. So just don't give up when it's getting tough; your peaks will get higher and your downs won't be as low as they used to be!

So a chorus shouldn't be an anti-climax. Clear! But why is this rule not as simple as it seems? I will try to explain this. If you follow the first two rules you won't too quickly end up with a chorus that's an anti-climax, just because these two rules ensure your chorus will be more or less the heart of the song. But still your chorus can become an anti-climax, simply because another part of the song attrackts too much the attention. A very impressive instrumental break can easily put the chorus in the shadows. So if your chorus is an anti-climax depends not only on the chorus itself, but on the rest of the song too. To avoid this disturbing effect, you will have to be very careful where to put that instrumental break, charismatic leadvocal-line etc.

To make things even more complicated, you will have to watch out for the chorus to become the climax of the song itself! This can be disasterous to your song, because you will end up with a song which repeats it's climax over and over again, with the result that you end up with a song that doesn't seem to have a climax at all! So every time you write a song you will have to deal with the problem to write a strong, catchy chorus but on the other hand not to make it too strong....

This virtual contradictionary is hard to solve, just listen to daily radio. But there are some ways to help you with this:

Distinction

To avoid the chorus and the climax of the song to interfere with each other, you can try to make a very clear distinction between these two rivals. You can do so by putting them apart from each other "physically" (give each of them their own space in the song), or by making them sound as different as the song allows you to.

The clearer the difference, the less chance of interference.

If you can't beat them...

Another aproach is to put the climax in the chorus itself. This works best when done in the final chorus. This solution requires you to change that chorus, otherwise it won't work, as we discussed earlier in this lesson. These changes can range from just changing the key, adding additional instruments (like backing-vocals) to even changing the lead-vocal line. When done right you will end up with a super-chorus, which won't be forgotten easily!

Some Examples

I will briefly discuss each example and will try to show you how the above is implemented into the examples. I also will point at some tricks I used in these choruses. Don't forget there are numerous examples to come up with, each with different combinations and interpretations of the rules we discussed in this lesson. Just consider these soundfiles as my contribution to what this is all about: music and the fun of it!

The first example is the chorus of Alien Tune, taken from the live-recorded third cassette of The Stag, Reset. Lesson 6 included the intro of this spacy song so maybe it's not a complete new-one for some of you.

This version of the chorus is played at the end of the song, and to make it stand out to the other choruses just because it's the last one, the third line is added to it, which is actually a repetition of the first line. The original chorus has only three lines, this final one has four.

Another trick I used in this chorus is as simple as efficiënt to draw the attention a chorus needs. I used an effects-processor to distort the lead-vocals. Keeping the original lead-vocaltrack and putting the distorted vocals behind it creates a very dramatic effect. A band like ZZ-Top used a trick like this in their song Manic Mechanic.

The next example is also taken from Reset, and is more melodic than the previous example. This will make it a lot easier to remember this chorus as you will probably notice, but this of course is also due to the fact that parts of the lyrics are repeated a few times.

Another trick used in this chorus to make it the eye-catcher of this song are the backing-vocals, which answer the questions "asked" by the lead-singer. Using several backing-vocals and making them "fade out" into the lead-vocals enhances the choir-effect. Recorded in a real studio in stead of the rehearsal-room this can sound real impressive.

Please note the sound-sample starts with the last line of the verse, which features a break to focus the attention to the chorus even more.

Another track taken from Reset, so recorded live at the rehearsal-room of The Stag, is the chorus of The Widow's Game. This chorus is an example of a miniature of the entire song. It contains parts of the main riff of the song, but the lead-vocals switch to a melodic, strong line, while they stick more to the rhythm of the song during the verses.

The final example of this lesson features the first track of The Last Season, the first cassette of The Stag. This chorus is short and melodic, yet it sounds simple. A chorus like this is hard to forget, whether you like it or not. In this particular case, the trick I used to make the chorus stand out to the rest of the song is the addition of backing-vocals (again) and a more prominent role for the keyboards in comparison to the verses. Changes like this are great to draw the attention to the chorus.

Taken from: http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Marble/9607